By Coach Steve
I can remember racing with regular drop style handlebars in USCF
time trials for years; my back would be screaming by the end of
most TTs over 30-minutes. Then came aerobars. It was a whole new
deal, not only for comfort, but for speed as well. Optimizing your
position on aerobars is important; just putting them on your bike
and hoping for new comfort and "free" speed is not enough. I see
too many riders struggle with aerobar positions that aren't even
close. For the record, most ineffective aerobar positions I see
at the races are set too long (over-extended), and too high.
Speed gains with a properly set-up aerobar position are significant,
well worth the additional weight of your complete bike. Faster riders
will gain proportionally more speed than slower riders, especially
on the flats and downhills. For most riders at climbing speeds there's
little or no advantage to maintaining an aerobar position.
First I'll assume that your seat position is completely dialed-in.
Keep in mind that to slide your seat forward (or back) to change
the distance to your aerobars is not an acceptable way to set your
reach. You need to choose the right length or adjustable aerobars
from the outset.
In choosing the type of aerobars, the kind of handlebar they'll
mount on makes a difference; you'll need to choose the correct type
of aerobar to clamp on to either your drop bars, bullhorn bars,
or complete bullhorn bar/aerobar unit. With drop bars you'll need
an aerobar that mounts as low as possible so that your forearms
rest right at the level of the tops of the bars. With bullhorn style
TT bars, the aerobars you choose should have some extra height above
the point where they clamp on, as a properly fitted bullhorn bar
and stem combination will be significantly lower than drop style
bars.
Some models of aerobars have an adjustment for length, some don't.
For clip-ons on drop bars you should choose an aerobar length where
your hand position does not go more than a couple inches beyond
the brake levers. ITU pros who race Olympic distance (and draft
legal junior racers) are limited to drop style bars with an aerobar
that doesn't go beyond the furthest forward point of their brake
levers. This is for safety reasons, but in fact gives a good position
when the drop bar's position is optimal. It's not usually as comfortable
as a dedicated tri/TT bike with bullhorn/aerobar though.
There are many one-piece combination bullhorn/aerobar units available.
Do your research carefully before buying to make sure they will
work with your current frame's top tube length. Also make sure the
front end of your bike is low enough, as bullhorn bars are positioned
lower than road style drop bars. In a few cases for small riders
a 650c front wheel is needed. I favor a unit with separate stem
so you can change length and adjust angle.
Aerobars that don't have a length adjustment typically come in
three lengths (S/M/L). There's usually a guide on the box where
you measure your forearm length for proper fit. Keep in mind that
if your handlebar position is correct most of your forearm length
is already figured-in, so I find few if any riders need the longest
length, with the small and medium sizes working for the majority.
You've chosen the aerobars and are mounting them on your bike.
Here is how they should fit:
- From a side view, your forearms should be level. Some wind tunnel
tests found forearms tilted up also gave a low drag coefficient,
but level forearms give a better balance and feel on the bike
with excellent low drag numbers.
- Again looking from the side, the inner angle between your forearm
and upper arm should be 90 to 110 degrees. If this angle is greater
than 110 degrees (common), the reach to your aerobar is too long;
it may cause lower back problems and leave you with less leverage/power.
If this angle is less than 90 degrees, you're too close (rare).
Usually this means your bike's top tube, or stem length is too
short. In rare cases your aerobar may be too short.
- Set your elbow width with comfort as first priority. Narrow
elbows are not always faster; hands together out front with elbows
apart in a "V" shape will direct airflow around body and can be
just as fast as elbows close/forearms parallel.
The closer to horizontal your back is, the lower your aerodynamic
drag coefficient will be - a very good thing. But for many athletes
their lower back/hamstring flexibility limits how low they can go
so setting an aerobar position one can comfortably maintain for
the race's duration is key. I'm typically on my aerobars for 95%
of the race. I only come off the aerobars for quick accelerations,
braking, very sharp corners, and steep (small chainring), or stand-up
type climbs. An Ironman distance athlete holding the position for
hours may need a higher position then sprint distance specialist.
Finally, use the aerobars every chance you get in training; the
more you use them the more comfortable it is to maintain the position
on race day! |